Visiting Seychelles for the first time in 2012 was a fortuitous opportunity for Alex and me — my husband’s brother had moved there many years ago and Alex had spent a significant amount of time both visiting and working on the islands. As a result, when Alex and I decided to go there for what turned out to be “pre-wedding honeymoon”, I was 100% on board to take advantage of the truly insider’s view on this incredible place. And what’s even grander was visiting again, as a family of four ten years later in 2022.
Beau Vallon, Mahe, Seychelles
Seychelles. Even the name seems to ring with unspoiled, exotic beauty. Idyllic, seemingly lost at the far edge of the world, and, despite being assumed to be the actual location of the Garden of Eden, unclaimed by tourism.
Writing about Seychelles both exhilarating and challenging because the beauty of these islands requires some serious use of superlatives. The Republic of Seychelles is comprised of 115 islands, an archipelago off the coast of East Africa — with closest neighbors being Madagascar and the famed Maldives. Naturally, the thing they’ve got most of is … you guessed it, beaches. Public beaches. All of them. There is an actual law that states that no one can own their private beach and so, you can walk and enjoy any beach on any island (though obviously, you cannot trespass private property that lies beyond the beach).
Anse Royale, Mahe, Seychelles
And with air temperatures holding steady at a very comfortable 28-29 C° year round (water temperatures range just three degrees from 26 to 29 C°), beach life is absolutely the star attraction with miles upon miles of perfect strands of white sand, arranged neatly against the warm and azure waters of the Indian Ocean and backdropped by granite boulders and lush forest. There is more to see, of course — but it’s hardly possible to avoid beaches when visiting and there is lots to choose from!
Carana Beach, Mahe, Seychelles
In fact, this carries a particular challenge in itself, because not even the official travel website of the Republic of Seychelles lists all the beaches though they do list 44 of the truly worthwhile options across multiple islands! But that doesn’t even cover the 66 beaches that Mahé has alone. Holy moly! And this, friends, is why knowing which ones to visit can really make or break your trip, in more ways than one.
In addition, most tourists typically book a trip at a specific beach and hotel, which is in line with the islands’ spirit of luxury and exclusivity.
Four Seasons, Seychelles, situated on what is now more or less private beach, Petite Anse
Alex, enjoying a draft after arriving at the Coral Strand@ Beau Vallon in 2012Alex, enjoying a draft after arriving at the Coral Strand@ Beau Vallon in 2022
No one really wants you to leave their particular hotel, which typically already has a restaurant, relaxation and entertainment options. So where to go and what to do? For visiting other beaches on Mahé, you will need to get a car; taxi is possible but don’t expect this to be cheap. Thinking ahead about how you will get around will help avoid being overcharged at your hotel.
Once you do, I invite you to check out the following must-see and enjoy beaches, each with their unique story, character and landscape. In no particular order:
1. Beau Vallon
Probably the most well-known beach on Mahé, known for its startling stillness, clearest cerulean water and ribbons of seemingly endless white sand make you want to stay a while. I probably spent the first few days just lying on my back in the ocean, soaking up every minute of this natural perfection.
Relaxation @ Beau Vallon in 2012. I did not find pictures of relaxation in 2022 with children in tow 🙂
Beau Vallon this is one of the calmest beaches without rocks, currents, or big waves, which makes it perfect for kids and adults alike. Summer months enjoy north-west calm winds, which enable the near pool-like experience in the water, though in winter Beau Vallon can get a bit choppier. Perhaps the only “not so perfect” moment of this beach in summer months is the evening occupation of the water by tiny medusae that periodically sting… but easy enough to avoid by swimming by day.
Beau Vallon Beach, July 2012
There are lots of offerings at this beach, not only for sunbathing and swimming, but also parasailing, snorkeling, and diving, as well as plenty of restaurants and bars.
The beach is easy to walk and I enjoyed taking daily strides along the clear calm water, having my feel melt in the soft sand dust. The locals and tourists alike can be found on this beach, each finding their own slice of heaven.
There are quite a few accommodation options at this beach that range from total spa luxury to apartments. A little side note on where to stay – pretty much everything is likely seem expensive. For example, per night cost of a mid-range hotel room will start around $250-300. This is consistent with the luxury image that the Seychelles markets to the world travelers. There is also some seasonality when prices rise around big holidays as well as peak months (summer, spring break, etc). In 2012, we chose to stay at the Coral Strand (a mid-range hotel) right on the beach to make the most of our stay, and in 2022, it’s still a lovely place to spend the day with the beach, pool, bar and restaurant being in close proximity. Many more hotels have gone up, alongside a budding Airbnb/house booking market, so now there are more options for where to stay that may be more economical.
La Fontaine @ Beau Vallon (2012, now sadly defunct)
Another word about where to eat at Beau Vallon Beach, which is spread out and full of options vs other beaches that may be occupied by a single hotel.
The Seychellois cuisine is diverse, due to the various immigration to the islands. There are many different restaurants to suit international taste in food. The staple, however, is of course fresh fish and seafood.
We’ve had several delicious dinners at the nearby La Perle Noire, a cheap and easy pizza at Baobab Pizzeria, great Indian food at Mahe, and insanely fresh Millionaire Salad (from fresh palm) and tuna anything at the beachfront La Plage. Quite a nice Creole buffet at the Boathouse Restaurant and fantastic beachside bar hop at Beach Shak. In case you enjoy an occasional card game, roulette or other gambling games, stop by the Berjaya Resort and Casino.
2. Sunset (Hotel) Beach
Sunset Beach at low tide, 2022
This pretty beach is framed on the left by rising rocks and the now closed (as of 2022) Sunset Hotel, from which — no surprises, you once could view some absolutely breathtaking sunsets on the Northwest side of the Mahé island. Sunset beach lies in close proximity to Beau Vallon. It’s most easily reached by car, but the distance is walkable too, for those that enjoy long walks. Now that the hotel is closed (I bet not for long), this is a wild beach… so, few people and pleasure of feeling like you own the place.
Views from hotel at Sunset Beach, 2012
More than that, the beach is situated on a bay that shines with multiple shades of blue – from turquoise to cerulean. As many Seychellois beaches, it is rounded with granite and other boulders, giving the beach a shaded and dramatic feel. Because of the underwater rock formations and nearby reefs, this is a beloved hangout for local sealife. In fact, my most memorable moment of our 2012 vacation had occurred at this beach — when Alex and I were snorkeling and actually were for a few minutes part of a whole school of fish! Gorgeous bunch! Clownfish, as always, really stand out in their beauty. They swam with us as if we were just part of the gang, chilling out by the hotel waiting for some bread to be thrown down from the gallery above.
I squealed with excitement as we got out of the water, shaking and drowning in my own happiness from swimming with my friends! My happy place.
I am told that turtles frequent this little piece of heaven as well, though we were not so lucky that time. We did enjoy afternoon to evening cocktails here, feeding the fish and watching their silvery skins catch light on the reflection of the setting sun.
And it was absolutely perfect.
Sunset Beach, 2022
A fantastic alternative bar to watch the sunset from is Bliss Hotel, which is down the road. Romantic, dreamy and completely perfect for the occasion, even if you are not staying there.
Bliss Hotel, 2022. Perfect sunsets over dinner and drinks.
3. Carana Beach
Carana Beach (Hotel), 2022
Oh, what can I say? In 2012, Carana was completely wild and untamed. You could see the fossil imprints on its shore rock formations, and feel a little bit like Tom Hanks on a deserted island. Just ten years later, it is the home of a stunning eco-hotel by the same name, and the cosmic boulders are its constant.
Carana Beach, 2022
Just go, and experience beautiful emotion.
Carana Beach, 2022
4. Anse Intendance
One of the most southern points of Mahe, the Anse Intendance beach consistently makes it into every list of beaches to visit on Seychelles and for a very good reason. The powdery white sand, a shade of turquoise that seems photoshopped, the lush green hills are the ingredients fit for paradise. Summer sees 15 ft waves, fueled by south east trade winds but the water is calmer in winter.
This beach used to be occupied by the Banyan Tree Hotel, which as we found out in 2022 has sadly closed, leaving us just with memories. We enjoyed a spectacular spa experience at the Banyan Tree once upon a time — massages at their top floor outdoor spa immersed us in nature, and were followed by an outdoor shower overlooking the ocean. I also believe that it won’t be a wild beach for long. The likes of Four Seasons is soon to take for former Banyan Tree over and recreate the magical atmosphere of feeling like you are one with the ocean itself.
5. And 6, and 7. Anse Soleil, Baie Lazare and Petite Anse
Located in the southwestern part of Mahe, several clustered beaches are all worth their own visit, and you could do this in one day.
View of Anse Soleil Beach from the nearby hotel
Anse Soleil tops my list for snorkeling — the reefs are close to the beach and I was able to see so much beauty including a barracuda and lots of angelfish. Roads get a bit steep as you descend, so you may choose to drive and stop at the hotel for lunch/drinks to visit the beach. Baie Lazare is just on the other side of Anse Lazare and has a similar draw.
Anse Soleil, 2022. Snorkeling haven. Saw about 80% of fish above.
Petite Anse is truly one of the most stunning beaches I have seen. Set like a jewel among the black mountains, it’s got it all — crystal waters, fish that seems to jump out to be seen. There is one catch, however, and that it is only accessible via Four Seasons Hotel. It’s posh and is perhaps one of the very top end stays in Seychelles, where you can basically smell money. I tell you this only because to get through while not staying there is not going to feel great — you got to get banded (wristband), and no one will give you a ride down to the beach or back up, so word to the wise, it’s not a short walk. It is definitely worth it though, and is absolutely spectacular.
Petite Anse, Four Seasons Hotel 2022
8. Anse Royale
Anse Royale, 2022
Drop-dead gorgeous beach that is the little brother to Anse Source D’Argent in La Digue. Dramatic rock formations, excellent snorkeling opportunities. The only downside is that everyone knows about it and there is even parking nearby. Still, worth a stop!
Anse Royale, 2022
Pair with a visit to the Takamaka Rum Distillery, a local staple and a delicious point of interest. There is a beautiful garden of edible foods and spices that was extremely well-presented and informative, possibility to take an excursion to see the actual distillery or simply enjoy the different rum. This is incidentally where we tried some amazing local fruit and run concoctions – trust me and get either the cherimoya or the passionfruit cocktail!
Takamaka Rum Distillery, 2022
I’ve counted 8 gorgeous beaches and missed another bazillion, I am sure of it. Wherever you will end up, I have no doubt the natural beauty of Seychellois beaches will blow you away.